Saturday, September 15, 2012

NYFW Favorites: Spring 2013

New York fashion week just wrapped up and I've selected my favorite collections for Spring 2013.

My favorite was Calvin Klein Collection.
Presented near the end of fashion week, it was just the collection I was looking for.  I looked through all the collections on and I hadn't found one that I really, 100% liked... until Calvin Klein.  It was the perfect mix of minimal, architectural, and feminine.  I loved the neutral color palette, subtle details, and textiles.  The hair, make-up, and accessories were also spot-on.  All in all, this is what I look for in a great collection and Francisco Costa delivered. 

Next, I really enjoyed Cushnie et Ochs.
They showcased their first venture into swimwear (tiny, but well designed), but I particularly enjoyed their signature cut-outs.  The design duo has a great eye for shapes and uses negative space really well.  I also loved the burst of blue in the line, but the last three black dresses were really stunning.  Cushnie et Ochs does sexy in a way that is strong and powerful, but still really classic and feminine.  It is something I really admire in their designs.

I also like Vera Wang's collection.
One of the reasons I think I liked Wang's line is because I don't normally take to her ready-to-wear pieces.  This collection was more refined and structural than what I remember from her in the past, and I really liked the change.  Her inspiration was India and I think she did a nice job translating that into wearable clothing, unlike some other Indian inspired collections, which tend to look a bit costume.  I really loved the green dress with gold embroidery (2nd image, lower row) and the gilded pieces at the end. The tonal embroidery on the first white garments was also quiet beautiful.

My favorite new designer was Sally LaPointe.
I related to her inspiration (rock formations, quarries, and an abandoned submarine base) and like her hard and soft dichotomy.  The draped elements paired with structural pieces produced a nice effect, as did the use of leather to create flouncy peplums.  Her evening pieces were lovely and the racer cut tops were very on trend.  I look forward to seeing more from her in the future.

Other collections that I thought were noteworthy included Christian Siriano, Marchesa, Narciso Rodriguez, Jenny Packham, and Monique Lhuillier.
Christian Siriano's ballet inspired collection was perfect for Spring.  The colors, shapes, and textiles were all a welcome sight amongst many dark, leathery collections.  He didn't go too predictable with the incorporation of this inspiration, but I wasn't quiet as crazy about his eveningwear as I normally am.  The print he used was just OK and the bright teal was a bit harsh given the soft blushes, ivories, and pale blues used in the rest of the collection.  Beautiful hair, makeup, and shoes and, overall, some really lovely pieces.

The Marchesa collection was beautiful, as it always is.  Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, like Wang, were also inspired by India.  While it lent to some stunning embroidered elements, the collection was a bit too literal for my liking.  The draped tulle and chiffon, the colors, and the embellishments were all beautiful, but most pieces will have to be worn with reservation.  The use of gold leaf in the eye make-up was also a well-received effect. called Narciso Rodriguez's Spring 2013 collection "career defining."  I think that's a bit of an overstatement, but it was a strong line.  He showed some pieces that were extremely well done with his signature neckline cut and color play being used, like in the pieces shown above.  My only qualms with the collection are in the middle pieces that are comprised of floral prints that just seem dated and, quiet frankly, ugly.  I love his black and white and red pieces, though, and his simple hair and strappy shoes.

Jenny Packham presented a collection of admirable cocktail and eveningwear, which is something she really does best.  There was a subtle hint of 60s mod to many of the pieces, but done well so that they look modern and fresh, not vintage like at Michael Kors.  I also loved her color story of soft grays, lemon yellows, polka dots, and a vibrant orange.

This season, Monique Lhuillier incorporated some amazing prints into her collection.  She had a very graphic black and white print that I just loved.  Her use of it was also much appreciated, used in strong, tailored pieces.  Lhuillier has been designing more athletic pieces the past few season and this was no exception.  My only gripe with her Spring 2013 line was that the frothy tulle evening gowns, while stunning, didn't seem to go with the rest of the looks.  I also really disliked the partially slicked back hair and blue eyeshadow.  I think sleek, glossy straight locks and a strong cat/smokey eye would have been much better.

I also enjoyed many of the looks in the following collections: Jason Wu, Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera, Zac Posen, Kimberly Ovitz, Rachel Roy, Robert Rodriguez, Mandy Coon, Katie Gallagher, Brandon Sun, Alexander Wang, Belstaff, and Altuzarra.  Those collections can be seen at

Looking forward to seeing that London, Paris, and Milan fashion weeks bring!  I'll be reporting on my favorite collections from those cities, as well as some of the Spring trends (like short suits, racer cuts, and color).

Coco Birdie

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